Clinical Evaluation of Niacinamide in Hyperpigmentation and Barrier Repair

Kubiak Sadler^*
*Correspondence: Kubiak Sadler, Department of Cosmetology, Shanghai Jiao Tong University School of Medicine, Shanghai, China, Email:

Introduction

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is the amide form of vitamin B3 (niacin), a water-soluble vitamin that plays an essential role in cellular metabolism and DNA repair. In recent years, niacinamide has garnered significant attention in dermatology and cosmetic science due to its broad spectrum of dermatological benefits. Its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin barrier-supporting properties make it particularly effective in treating conditions like hyperpigmentation, acne, rosacea, and atopic dermatitis. Hyperpigmentation is a common dermatological concern characterized by excess melanin production, leading to uneven skin tone, melasma, Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH), and age spots. It significantly impacts aesthetic appearance and psychosocial well-being, especially in darker-skinned individuals. On the other hand, barrier function impairment-common in dry skin, atopic dermatitis, and aging skin-leads to increased Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), inflammation, and susceptibility to irritants. Niacinamideâ??s dual action on both melanogenesis inhibition and epidermal barrier enhancement makes it a unique and versatile active ingredient in cosmeceutical formulations. It is now widely incorporated in creams, serums, moisturizers, and anti-aging products, supported by a growing body of clinical studies and mechanistic research [1-3].

Niacinamide reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. Unlike other agents such as hydroquinone, it does not affect melanogenesis directly, making it safer for long-term use. Niacinamide inhibits the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines like IL-1β, IL-6, and TNF-α, reducing inflammation-induced hyperpigmentation and improving conditions like acne and rosacea. These lipids are essential components of the stratum corneum, and their production restores skin hydration and reduces TEWL. Niacinamide scavenges reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inhibits protein glycation, thereby protecting skin cells from oxidative stress-induced damage and aging. It has been shown to reduce sebaceous lipid synthesis, contributing to acne management and reducing oily skin texture. Niacinamide group showed better tolerability and fewer adverse effects. Suggested that niacinamide is a non-irritant alternative to hydroquinone.

Description

PIH is common in darker skin types. A study by Hakozaki et al. (2002) found that 5% niacinamide applied twice daily for 4 weeks significantly reduced dark spots in Japanese and Caucasian subjects. Histological analysis showed decreased melanosome density in keratinocytes. Reducing irritation potential of stronger agents. Providing complementary anti-inflammatory and barrier-protective effects. A combination of 2% niacinamide with 0.05% tretinoin was found to be more tolerable and effective than tretinoin alone in PIH management. A study by Surjana et al. (2010) involving 30 patients with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis found that topical niacinamide significantly improved skin hydration, reduced TEWL, and decreased itch severity over 4 weeks. A double-blind trial (Draelos et al., 2005) on 50 women showed that 5% niacinamide applied over 12 weeks improved barrier function and reduced signs of aging, likely due to enhanced ceramide production and collagen synthesis.

Hyperpigmentation is a major concern among individuals with darker skin tones, where melanin production is more active and hyperpigmented lesions take longer to fade. Niacinamide is especially beneficial for this population. Reduced risk of irritation compared to acids and hydroquinone. Gradual lightening without causing depigmentation or rebound hyperpigmentation. Studies in Asian, African, and Hispanic populations have shown notable improvement in melasma and PIH with niacinamide-containing products. Clinical trials also indicate that lower concentrations (2â??3%) are sufficiently effective in skin of color, thus minimizing potential irritation while maximizing results. Although primarily discussed in the context of pigmentation and barrier repair, niacinamide has significant benefits in photoaging and intrinsic aging due to its ability. Inhibit Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs) that contribute to skin aging. In a 12-week clinical study (Bissett et al., 2005), 5% niacinamide showed significant reduction in wrinkle depth, hyperpigmentation, redness, and sallowness in photoaged facial skin. When combined with sunscreen, niacinamide enhances UV protection by reducing UV-induced immunosuppression and inflammation, offering synergistic photoprotective benefits. Recent interest has turned toward the skin microbiome, which plays a crucial role in barrier function, inflammation control, and pigmentation regulation. Niacinamide, through its anti-inflammatory and lipid-enhancing properties, indirectly supports a stable and diverse skin microbiome [4,5].

As the fields of dermatology, cosmetic science, and skin microbiome research continue to evolve, niacinamide remains at the forefront of innovation. With ongoing research, improved delivery systems, and growing market accessibility, it is poised to remain a cornerstone in skincare for decades to come.

Conclusion

Niacinamide has firmly established itself as one of the most versatile and scientifically validated cosmeceutical ingredients available today. Its ability to address both hyperpigmentation and barrier dysfunction-two of the most common and interrelated dermatological concerns-makes it invaluable in both therapeutic and cosmetic settings. Through a variety of mechanisms, including inhibition of melanosome transfer, stimulation of ceramide synthesis, anti-inflammatory modulation, and antioxidant activity, niacinamide offers broad-spectrum benefits with a high safety margin. Clinical trials consistently demonstrate its efficacy in treating melasma, PIH, acne, atopic dermatitis, and signs of aging, all while preserving the integrity of the skin barrier. In an era of growing demand for gentle, effective, and multifunctional skincare, niacinamide stands out as a cornerstone ingredient. As research progresses, its integration into personalized and microbiome-conscious formulations promises to further elevate its role in future skincare innovations.

Acknowledgment

None.

Conflict of Interest

None.

References

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